Comings and Goings

by Ruth TobiasMay 17, 2013

In New York City, chef Michael White’s Altamarea Group has birthed a new sibling for Marea, Ai Fiori, Nicoletta, et al.: Costata is a contemporary steakhouse with a characteristically Italian twist and a bar run by the famed Eben Freeman to supplement the lengthy wine list. Similarly, Jo-Ann Makovitzky and Marco Moreira have expanded their Manhattan brood—including Tocqueville and 15 East—to include The Fourth, a morning-to-night "American" brasserie whose roots in Europe nonetheless dominate on both menu and wine list. In Washington D.C., Etto has opened to dispense pizzas, salumi, and primarily Italian libations, while Atlantans are descending on King + Duke, whose coal- and wood-burning ovens yield everything from roasted ratatouille with house-pulled mozzarella to a Pekin duck duo with mustard greens and plums; all 30 wines on beverage director Lara Creasy’s list are available by the glass.

Far more ambitious than the name suggests, Chicago’s new Parson’s Chicken & Fish is a sprawling indoor-outdoor hang with a retro air and a cheeky approach to regional fare as well as cocktails. Speaking of cocktails, Grant Achatz has announced the return of Alinea alum Andrew Brochu to his fold; he’ll be in the kitchen at The Aviary. Meanwhile, sommelier James Rahn has left Chicago, where he worked at Girl and the Goat and Benny’s Chop House, entirely to join the team at The Heathman Restaurant & Bar in Portland, Ore. And San Diego’s acclaimed Addison at The Grand Del Mar welcomes new wine director Elizabeth Huettinger (pictured), who comes from Spago in Beverly Hills to oversee the 37,000-bottle cellar.

(photo courtesy of The Grand Del Mar)

 

5/16/13 eUpdate: New Content on the Website, eNewsletter, and Similar Archive Stories

by Phil VogelsMay 16, 2013

The second batch of articles from the May 31, 2013, issue is available at our website: http://www.sommelierjournal.com/articles/issue.aspx?year=2013&month=5. Four new articles are available: a feature on the rise of hard cider, the Restaurant Spotlight on Baltimore's Waterfront Kitchen, Match Point on the dos and don'ts of cheese pairing, and Bartender on appreciating the classics.

Since it's Thursday our weekly eNewsletter has also been published. In addition to the usual mix of links, updates on the blog and forum, and new article announcements, we have a look at the geology of Soave.

Each week we will continue to use the blog to point out stories from our archives that are similar to the just published new articles.

Hard Cider
Calvados: The Epicure’s Secret Elixir (November 2009)
Spirited Artisans: The Rise of American Craft Distilling (January 31, 2011)
Mead: An Ancient Beverage Goes Modern (November 30, 2011)

Restaurant Spotlight
Primo, Rockland, Maine (November 30, 2011)
Manresa, Los Gatos, California (August 2009)
LBV: The Other Vintage Port (March 15, 2011) (subscriber-only)

Match Point
Wines That Can Say “Cheese” (August 2008)
Pairing Spanish Wines and Cheeses (February 28, 2012)
Matching Foods and Wines by Weight (January 15, 2012) (subscriber-only)

Bartender
Enough With the Jokes (August 31, 2012)  (subscriber-only)
The Cocktail Matrix (October 2009)  (subscriber-only)
How’s Your Cocktail? (June 2009)  (subscriber-only)

Video from David Vogels: Some Tips on Reading Sommelier Journal on an iPad

by Phil VogelsMay 16, 2013

This video from editor David Vogels includes tips on reading Sommelier Journal on a mobile device. He uses an iPad as the example, but many of the functions will be the same on any mobile device.

Comings and Goings

by Ruth TobiasMay 11, 2013

In Somerville, Mass., Tim and Bronwyn Wiechmann—already acclaimed for T.W. Food in nearby Cambridge—are inches away from launching Bronwyn, a Mitteleuropean gastrotavern featuring the likes of housemade wurst and foie gras knishes alongside the region's brews, wines, and spirits. The folks behind Washington, D.C.-area Leesburg Brewing Co. have a background in winemaking and buying, so rest assured there will be bottles as well as house pints to accompany the small selection of bar grub. Waters: Bonnell’s Coastal Cuisine has opened in Fort Worth, Texas, to serve up buckets of oysters—raw, fried, and grilled over pecan wood—as well as crawfish spring rolls, chicken-fried rabbit loin in bacon-cream gravy, and more, plus a lengthy wine list. And Los Angeles’s Farmshop now has a satellite in Larkspur, Calif.; Thomas Keller alums Jeff Cercielo and Mark Hopper are behind the farm-to-table venture, where the bar program is as locally focused as the seasonal menu—think fried Half Moon Bay smelts over potato-sorrel salad or grilled halibut over cracked wheat, smashed beets, spiced leeks, and pickled-walnut pesto.

A flock of winemakers has also landed in California: Rudd Oakville Estate has appointed Frederick Ammons (pictured above), most recently of the Napa Valley Reserve; Marla Carroll alights at Franciscan Estate Winery in St. Helena; and Lodi’s Oak Ridge Winery has brought on head vintner Michael Borboa. On the opposite coast, Finger Lakes producer Red Newt Cellars welcomes Bob Madill, who will retain his position as grower-manager at Sheldrake Point Winery.

(Photo by Sarah Chatham)

Comings and Goings

by Ruth TobiasMay 11, 2013

In Somerville, Mass., Tim and Bronwyn Wiechmann—already acclaimed for T.W. Food in nearby Cambridge—are inches away from launching Bronwyn, a Mitteleuropean gastrotavern featuring the likes of housemade wurst and foie gras knishes alongside the region's brews, wines, and spirits. The folks behind Washington, D.C.-area Leesburg Brewing Co. have a background in winemaking and buying, so rest assured there will be bottles as well as house pints to accompany the small selection of bar grub. Waters: Bonnell’s Coastal Cuisine has opened in Fort Worth, Texas, to serve up buckets of oysters—raw, fried, and grilled over pecan wood—as well as crawfish spring rolls, chicken-fried rabbit loin in bacon-cream gravy, and more, plus a lengthy wine list. And Los Angeles’s Farmshop now has a satellite in Larkspur, Calif.; Thomas Keller alums Jeff Cercielo and Mark Hopper are behind the farm-to-table venture, where the bar program is as locally focused as the seasonal menu—think fried Half Moon Bay smelts over potato-sorrel salad or grilled halibut over cracked wheat, smashed beets, spiced leeks, and pickled-walnut pesto.

A flock of winemakers has also landed in California: Rudd Oakville Estate has appointed Frederick Ammons (pictured above), most recently of the Napa Valley Reserve; Marla Carroll alights at Franciscan Estate Winery in St. Helena; and Lodi’s Oak Ridge Winery has brought on head vintner Michael Borboa. On the opposite coast, Finger Lakes producer Red Newt Cellars welcomes Bob Madill, who will retain his position as grower-manager at Sheldrake Point Winery.

(Photo by Sarah Chatham)